Shell-Types

There are so many hot tub shells that it's hard for anyone to pick out one based on nearly every company saying that they have the best for you.

The most expensive and better shell materials will be non-porous. Lotions and sebaceous gland oil build up on our bodies can deposit on the shell causing stains and build-up. Non-acrylic shells are the most likely to get ruined by this. You should also see how resistant the shell is to cracking and chipping. There are a few pressure and sound tests you can do to see how resistant the shells are.

Some hot tubs lose their shine because of the cleaning chemicals. Ask and get it in writing if you use certain chemicals in the water if it will change the color of your hot tub. Get your water report because you need to know this first no matter what the sales person says. Some hot tubs crack over time when exposed to sunlight and super hot water over time.

The best shells can resist the harsh elements and stay shiny without waxing. If anyone tries to sell you a polishing kit to keep it looking good, don't buy from them. A high quality hot tub shell should be able to be cleaned with a rag and some glycerine soap.

Don't think you have to buy the most durable hot tub shell. A small hot tub does not need such a high grade shell that can support more water weight than needed. If you are getting a small hot tub, you don't need the type of material that can hold 3 times as much water. If you plan on using your hot tubs for partying, you might want a more durable shell no matter the size of the hot tub. I have heard stories on cracked hot tubs from drunken parties. Once the tub is cracked, you can plan on more and more cracks. If you want a more durable hot tub, look for the highest density acrylic. The thicker this acrylic the more expensive the hot tub will usually be. Ask your dealer to show you a cross section of their acrylic. If they refuse to show you this piece, or even mail it to you, or email a picture of it to you, you might see a red flag.

Beware: Don't think for a second that just because the shell has everything you are asking for that it is good. Avoid robotic welding. Shells that are robotic welded can have air pockets and fractures in them causing a tiny weak spot in the shell. The shell might look nice from the eye when completed but all it takes is one crack and there you go... you have a leak. Always try to get hand welded shells if you can afford it. They can be quite expensive but will save you money in the long run and you have a hot tub that can last longer. Take our quiz and if you request a shell that has its fiberglass rolled it will help weed out the ones that are not hand rolled. Hand rolled shells usually separates the expensive hot tubs from the cheap ones.

If you can't afford acrylic shells, OAS shells are 2nd best. If you get OAS, make sure the foam used does not cover the pipes as many OAS hot tubs do this and are more expensive to fix if leaks occur.

Avoid vinyl at all expense. These crack and break the most. If you are using harsh chemicals, it can weaken the vinyl shell unlike acrylic shells and most OAS shells. Hot tubs shells made out of vinyl are the cheapest saunas on the market. I would definitely keep the milli-volt charge of the water high if using this type of shell as the chemicals along with the lowered cluster size of the water will eat the vinyl away.

Bubbling on the shells surface is usually the first signal that the shell has weakened. These bubbles take away the smoothness of the shell and make it grainy feeling. ASK YOUR DEALER HOW LONG YOU SHOULD EXPECT YOUR HOT TUB TO START BUBBLING AND UNDER WHAT CONDITIONS IT COULD HAPPEN IN THEIR HOT TUB. IF THEY HAVE NO ANSWER FOR YOU, THEN LOOK FOR A HOT TUB ELSEWHERE. I am tired of hearing the response, "we don't know, we have never had an issue with that. BOLOGNE! These shady snakes will say anything to make a sale.

There are now companies making acrylic shells but here is the catch. The shell is made of cheaper high grade ABS plastic but has a surface layer of acrylic. It's not as durable but on the surface it has the looks and qualities as if the entire shell was made out of acrylic. If you don't abuse your hot tub you can get away with this. Since acrylic doesn't stick well to the ABS plastic, a stiffening agent is added. The cheap way of doing this is by adding so much foam so that if there IS A LEAK, the water durable foam will contain the water. But, when the breaking point were it cannot hold any more water happens, then comes the big service issue and the service to fix one of these cheaper hot tubs is so expensive that most people end up ditching their old tub and getting a new one. If you go on Craigslist, you might see some of these for sale that are on the verge of leakage problems. The people who buy these buy from strangers and get screwed over all the time when a month later the tub leaks. I hear these stories from random people all the time so that is why I am saying this.

Other Plastics Backed by ABS; There are a few other plastics that are used in the same manner as acrylic backed by ABS. They are marketed with too many names to list here but they are usually a white or cream color with a slight texture. They have all the same up-and-downs as acrylic / ABS. Plus some can stain with high concentrations of chemical, for instance if a bromine tablet sits on the floor for an extended period of time.

Thermal Plastics; Relatively new in their use in the spa industry, this type of shell seems to have great merit. In many cases the manufacturer will put a lifetime surface and structural warranty on this material. Catching on in popularity with manufacturers my best recommendation is if you are looking at one of types of tub shop around and purchase from a manufacturer that has been pulling them a while. It is easy to pull a shell with thin spots if the person running the vacuum former is not paying attention. So here again, buy from a company you believe will be around for a while. Most of these types of shells consist of a Polyethylene material.

Note* Polyethylene can and will turn a brownish color if low pH, high disinfectant levels and the presence of Iron oxide (rust) are allowed for an extended period of time.

With all of these types of shells, it is worth noting, that the shiny acrylics need to be waxed occasionally. (Exception: textured acrylic) It will help keep water line buildup to a minimum and will help to erase some of the fine scratches that can form during normal use. The textured materials can be cleaned with a plastic scrub brush. ( You can use the spas own water as the cleaning medium) Because they hide scratches, the long-term appearance of these materials is generally better.

Also worth noting about shell materials, the acrylic material is generally less effected by improper water chemistry. Where some of the softer plastic materials can be yellowed or faded by high disinfectant levels and prolonged exposure to sunlight in some instances. Damage like this is usually not covered under manufacturers warranties.

All shell materials can be damaged by direct sun exposure. When your spa is empty, keep it covered.

Shell Warranties: Here is another thing to be aware of. A shell warranty can mean two things and if you are naive, you might get scammed if you don't know this. The warranty on the infrastructure of the shell is a warranty that protects you if their is a leak due to a manufacturing problem in the shell. If there are cold fractures and air pockets in the shell that cause a weak point and there is a leak, sure, that's covered by the warranty, that is, if the company is still in business if it happens.

Knowing if you bought the wrong hot tub!

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